Lumber: Apple, European pear, European and American beech: Hearne Hardwoods, local sawyers, or mills. If traditional timbers for long-nose-era clubs are not available, consider hard maple or persimmon. Lumber for heads in the correct 10/4 thickness will probably be the most challenging material to find. 

Bismuth-tin alloy: Rotometals 202F or 281F. Pewter is another alternative for lead.

Whipping: Crawford’s waxed linen thread, Royalwood Ltd, Hickory Golf Workshop, The Basket Maker’s Catalog, eBay, Etsy, leather stores

Horn: Culpepper & Co., Atlantic Coral, eBay. Search online for knife handle scales. 

Leather: Tandy Leather     Tacks: Etsy, Hickory Golf Workshop

Underlisting: One-inch cotton trim is ideal for an underlisting. Search on eBay for “one-inch cotton twill finishing tape trim herringbone.”

Turning saws and blades: Tools for Working Wood, Highland Woodworking, tool auction sites such as Brown Tool Auctions and Martin J Donnelly

Trapping plane: There are no current suppliers for new planes, but consider building one anew or converting an old wooden plane.

Pine tar: MaxBat or Tyrus brands pure pine tar for baseball bats or Auson brand 850. Pelican, “The Stick,” is a baseball bat product made of pitch, rosin, and wax and is excellent as a grip adhesive, especially when combined with the underlisting recommended above. The Stick is like a soft home-made coad or prepared pitch. Staining natural linen or hemp whipping requires a high percentage of pitch in a coad recipe as compared to the coad used as an adhesive. Asphaltum applied to whipping can provide an authentic look for a pre-1840s club.

Resins for varnish: Large art supply stores, AF Suter (UK). Shellac (dewaxed powder) is available from WellerMart. If available in your state, use Everclear 189- or 190-proof grain alcohol for mixing shellac rather than denatured alcohol to reduce vapor toxicity. Culinary Solvent sells 190- and 200-proof food-safe alcohol online to many states. See G. A. Siddons, The Cabinet Maker’s Guide, for traditional varnish recipes.

Liquid asphaltum: Hickory Golf Workshop, Gilsonite powder on eBay

Gutta-percha golf balls: McIntyre Golf Co. makes balls using a synthetic petroleum-based polymer, trans-1,4-polyisoprene (TPI), the same predominant molecule in gutta-percha and balata. They produce a Park model weighing 24 pennyweights (abbreviated dwt, equivalent to about ¹⁄₂₀ of an ounce) with a diameter of 1.66 to 1.67 inches. Most original gutta-percha balls weighed 26 to 27.5 dwt with diameters typically between 1.68 and 1.71 inches. The specific gravity of the synthetic gutta-percha is 0.948 while natural gutta-percha is 0.99 to 1.00. 

Rimpex Rubber sells synthetic gutta-percha. Modern balls and heavier gutta-percha balls tend to damage long-nose clubs. The recently introduced ultra-low compression balls are safer than standard modern balls. 

Animal products: For those wishing to avoid animal products, consider the following substitutes. Instead of a leather grip, use cotton or linen listing grips. Modern polyvinyl acetate (PVA) glues will form a strong bond but are more difficult to unglue for repairs than hide glue. Vulcanized fiber, available in sheets at McMaster-Carr, was an early 1900s alternative to horn. Starting in 1891, Willie Fernie made some clubs with a brass insert screwed into the horn slip. Another choice for horn is Micarta, made from multiple layers of paper or linen adhered with phenolic resin. The bone-colored version looks like horn. It does not bend like horn. Both vulcanized fiber and Micarta can be glued to the wood with a polyurethane glue. 

Replica long-nose playing clubs: Kelly Leonard, from Manitoba, makes authentic-looking replica clubs that are very playable, www.klhickory.com. St. Andrews Golf Company, Gavin Bottrell of Time Warp Golf, and Shaun Davies of Golf Classics produce replica clubs in the UK. Ross Baker makes multiple different-era clubs in Australia.